Bring on the Smoke

197. 2003 Ogier Caves des Papes Les Brunelles Crozes Hermitage (AOC Crozes Hermitage - France)

A couple of years back, we bought a little smoker so that Boo could feel more like he was eating his home-cooking of old. Poor smoker doesn't see a whole lot of use at our house; but we did pull it out to give it a go with a pork tenderloin.

A Syrah seemed like a natural match as you often see "smoke" as a descriptor used with Syrah and Rhone wines. Not that I see how "smoke" comes through in a wine. No matter, the roast was great and the wine went along nicely with it. The wine was definitely in the Old World French style - somewhat austere - and needed the food though.

Crozes Hermitage is one of the appellations in the Northern Rhone and, while the appellation produces mostly red wines, it only allows Syrah wines to be produced under the appellation's name - although it will permit a small percentage of the local white varietals to be blended in with the wine. This is a 100% Syrah wine though.

Crozes Hermitage isn't regarded in quite the same hushed tones as its neighbouring regions of Cote Rotie or Hermitage, but it is well-known for the large amount of cooperative wine that is produced. Rather than make and market their own wines, growers will sell their grapes to the cooperative that will then produce the wines.

Ogier Caves des Papes is such a negociant firm, having had its start in the vaunted Chateauneuf-du-Pape district a little further to the South.

Don't think that I'll rush back and grab another bottle, but I wouldn't say no to another plate of that smoked pork.