Greek Treat

We don't typically drink much in the way of Greek wines in our home. I think I've previously noted that most of the Greek wine we drink is by the litre or the carafe while scarfing back calamari or souvlaki at a local Greek taverna. Boo and I, however, are seriously looking at travelling to Greece this fall. So, I'm trying to find a few, higher end Greek wines to whet the palate.

I grabbed this bottle from one of the local specialty wine merchants (as opposed to the larger government-run stores) to pair with a travel guide book as a Christmas gift for Boo. It turned out to be quite the Greek treat.

1856.  2011 Alpha Estate Axia - Malagouzia (Greece)

Now, I wouldn't know a prototypical Malagouzia wine from one that simply stuck that label on any one of a dozen white juices, but Jancis Robinson et al, in their tome, Wine Grapes, advise that Malagouzia characteristically produces "full bodied, aromatic wines," exhibiting a big mouthfeel and bouquet - but lower acidity - when the grapes are grown in hotter sites. The wines can exhibit more acidity when sourced from cooler, higher elevations but those wines "can be thinner and less impressive." Thin and not-so-impressive being catchwords for most of my previous experiences with white, Greek wines.

 I like how the winery's website says that this Malagouzia is "fat but balanced." I think that's a pretty apt description of the wine.

Wine Grapes also says that the grape was "recently rescued from oblivion" and one of my favourite sources of more unfamiliar grapes (before he retired from his blog), Rob Tebeau of Fringe Wine, wrote a nice, little piece that talks a bit of how the grape was brought back from obscurity to become "one of the most important white grapes grown in Greece."

Not being that familiar with Greek wines, I'd never heard of the winery. Most of the Greek wines I run into are Boutari, Domestica or Tsantali. Alpha Estate was founded in 1997 and is found in the northwest part of Greece in the Florina region of Macedonia. An indication of the winery's modernity is that, in addition to traditional Greek grapes, the estate's vineyard grows such international varieties as Sauv Blanc, Gewurtztraminer, Pinot Noir, Montepulciano, Tannat, Merlot and Syrah.

We haven't done one iota of planning for this Greek Odyssey of our's; so, I have no idea if we'd make it anywhere near Alpha Estate during our travels, but I do know that I want to take in some wineries and find a whole lot of wines as tasty as this one was.

Even if we don't make our way to Alpha Estate or run into any of their wines, I'm already benefiting from their wines. I've yet to add Malagouzia to my Wine Century Club tally. So, this bottle gets me #176 on that list. Now that I've got less than another 150 bottles before I hit 2001 on The List, I'm hoping to pull in that last two dozen wines to hit 200 varieties before I get to take a bit of rest. I might need to find some more Greek wines before we actually hit the islands.

Calamari Plus

A major component of my "little" Wine Odyssey is to discover and experience wines from all around the globe. I definitely feel a tinge of excitement when I run across wines with unusual grape varieties - regardless of where they're from. Tonight's bottle is one of those "out there" bottles for me. I can't say that I know much about Greek wines - particularly the more premium bottlings. Most of my prior quaffing of Greek wines involve one of the ubiquitous, cheap and cheerful litre bottles found at Greek restaurants along with souvlaki and calamari.

I made a special effort, therefore, to head down to Marquis Wine Cellars - one of Vancouver's premium private wine stores (if it doesn't just outright take the crown) - when they featured this is one of their Wines of the Week, particularly since the wine was going to give me another two grapes to add to my Wine Century Club tally (#'s 162 and 163).

1450. Domain Mega Spileo White (Greece)

A blend of Assyrtiko and Lagorthi (the label says 60/40 while the website says 50/50), I wasn't going to get a whole lot of information from the bottle's label. It's completely in Greek and, while I may remember my Greek alphabet from fraternity days, it sure wasn't going to help me out here. It took a bit of time on the net to figure out what was going on with this bottle - particularly since Marquis said that the wine was made from the Lagorid grape. I didn't have any luck finding that one at all.

Lagorid. Lagorthi. It's all Greek to me.

Assyrtiko is one of the best known white wine grapes in Greece and I find it hard to believe that I haven't already added it to my Wine Century Club tally. I've definitely thrown back my share. I guess I just missed adding the variety as I'd assumed it was already there. Assyrtiko may be the third most widely planted white grape in Greece but it is most closely associated with the island of Santoríni.

The Domain Mega Spileo vineyards are located farther north in the mountains of Achaia in the north-west corner of the Peloponnese. More growers are planting Assyrtiko in the north as they're finding that it will keep its acidity and offer a bit more fruit on the palate than the grape tends to on Santoríni.

Lagorthi is relatively rare - it is only grown in a limited number of vineyards and is primarily found in northern Pelopennese and some of the Ionian Islands. The grape is known (as much as it is known) to maintain higher acidity levels than most people associate with white Greek wines. It is also known as Verdeca - a traditional variety grown in Puglia in southern Italy. The grape has a relatively neutral flavour profile with a noticeable minerality. Noting these traits, the folks at New Wines of Greece see it as an intriguing variety that can be found as a premium varietal wine or in some interesting blends - generally with grapes that can add a richness to the palate.

If the average wine drinker wouldn't know what Assyrtiko is, my guess is that the folks growing Lagorthi have got a ways to go before it'll ever be a household grape.

As for the winery, Domain Mega Spileo is found on lands with official references to the monastery vineyard that date from 1550. Viticulture on the lands ceased, however, as the monks gradually left the monastery. The vineyard was revived and replanted in 1999 by the current owners. This bottle is currently the only white wine that the winery makes.

While this wine definitely had more weight to it than I generally associate with white Greek wines, it still lacked the fruit that a BC boy like me is used to with favourite white wines. The minerality did shine through and I was thrilled with the exposure to Lagorthi but I don't think this is going to be a regular match to Boo's never-ending quest for the best calamari ever.

I should think that Boo could talk me into a visit to Greece to do a little research on calamari and Greek wines though. Hint. Hint.

A Greek Sisteris You Say?

Greece may have been in the news for all sorts of economic woes and political upheavals, but it's also appears to be making a concentrated push to bring more and more "New Wines of Greece" into the world market. This is certainly a new one for me - and, as such, I've got another grape to add to my Wine Century Club tally.

1280.  2010 Parparoussis - Les Dons de Dionysos - Sideritis (Greece) 

The name of the wine translates as "The Gift of Dionysos."

There wasn't a whole lot to be learned about the winery from their website as the pages are as basic as they come, stating that "this website is currently being developed." It does state, however, that the winery was established in 1974 at the Parparoussis family estate outside of Patras on the Peloponnese coast. Proprietor, Thanasis Parparoussis, is Burgundy trained and returned to Greece to take a lead role in a new wave of Greek boutique winemakers. He has been joined by his two daughters who now work by his side at the winery.

Luckily, there is more to be found online about Mr. Parparoussis, including the fact that, when he returned to Greece, he didn't shepherd the introduction of international grapes like Cab or Merlot (as many other Greek winemakers were doing in the 1980's). Rather, he looked deep to his roots and decided to work with mostly "off-the-beaten-track choices" like Roditis, Nemea Agiorgitiko and Mavrodaphne.

Parparoussis also chose to work with Sideritis, a grape that is thought to be indigenous to central Greece, but one that remains largely unknown and definitely "off-the-beaten-track."

I suspect this is a wine that's likely better when drunk while young. Deeper in colour and richer that I'd normally expect for a Greek white wine, our bottle wasn't quite as bright on the palate as most commentators on Sideritis seem to lead you to expect. I figured going Greek with shrimp and feta would be a no-brainer and the wine certainly passed the test but it didn't stand out such that it made me cry out for another bottle.

The grape is named after the Greek word for iron, sidero, but there are varying reasons behind the name. In her book, "Wine Grapes," Jancis Robinson says it is because of the grape's rough skin. Others, like Greek Wine World, say it is because of the grape's tendency to be high in minerality and acidity. Jancis also points out, though, that Parparoussis is "leading the way" with Sideritis in Patras, making approximately a quarter of the entire region's production of the grape.

Interestingly, Parparoussis also distills its Sideritis wine and then ages it in oak for 12 years to be sold as an eau de vie.

I might be more inclined to try the eau de vie before rushing off to buy another bottle of the table wine. This bottle clocked in around $30 where I found it in the Vancouver market and that's a touch rich for my tastes when talking basic white table wines. As you might guess, I can bend that rule a bit for a roll of the dice on a new varietal wine though. That ship has sailed with the Sideritis though.

On a final note though, with my last three post's including the addition of the Tinta Miúda and Cabernet Foch grapes as #150 and #151 to my Wine Century total, this Sisteris makes it three new grapes in a week. Who knows, 200 varieties may still be in the offing.

A Greek White to Help Prepare for Battle

As the Canucks prepare to go into battle tomorrow for a winner-take-all Game 7 of the Stanley Cup Finals, I'm grabbing a last wine for a little fortitude. Maybe a bit of Greek wine will help summon some fortitude for a classic, if not mythological, win for Vancouver sports lore.

Before we get to the wine, however, I'm going to share an ad that was posted on Craig's List regarding a Canucks ticket from last week. As soon as the schedule for the Finals series was released, I'd been praying that the series wouldn't need to go to seven games to determine the winner. For three or four months now, we've had tickets to go see the touring production of the Broadway musical, Wicked, and, wouldn't you know it, our tickets are for tomorrow night - the same night as Game 7. Is that the worst of luck or what?!

The guy who posted the ad was in a similar situation - although he was actually going to the game.

Here's the ad:

Single Ticket Canucks Game 2 section 313 - $450 (Vancouver)

I have to sell my ticket to the Canucks game 2, section 313 row 14. Hard Copy ticket

I am unable to go because I have to go to a fucking piece of shit musical with my wife (whom I love). I had agreed to go, and since the NHL decided to make the most retarded schedule they could, I have to give up my ticket to the Stanley Cup Finals to see some piece of shit musical with some bitches singing about some crap I don't care about. It's a terrible seat, you will have a terrible time at the game, the beer tastes like crap and costs $10 each... Price is firm because I don't want to sell it.

e-mail me.

Even though I've really been looking forward to seeing the musical, I feel his pain. I don't know if he'd have made the same decision if the ticket was for Game 7.

831. 2009 Lafazanis Selection White (Regional Wine of Peloponnese - Greece)

The Selection White is pretty much an entry level wine - although we don't tend to see many, if any, higher end, white Greek wines. The wine is a blend of two Greek varietals - Roditis and Moschofilero (a 55/45 blend) - both of which are prominently grown in the Peloponnese region. It's pretty much what I've come to expect from a Greek white - on the lighter side, with prominent fruit and acidity. Not too complicated but a good match to summer weather, tzatsiki, hummous and garlicky seafood (like Boo's squid pasta).

And, there's that little extra bonus of being able to add a 98th varietal to my Wine Century Club application. Roditis was added awhile back but I don't see Moschofilero on my list yet. Just like the Canucks, it looks like I'm zeroing in on the completion of a task that I've set out there for myself. Perhaps it's a tad easier to accomplish than winning the Stanley Cup, but then I'm a little old to have any aspirations of being a professional hockey player. And, don't they always say that you should stick to what you do best. Drink different wines or play hockey - you pick. Besides, I could never skate backwards.

But, back to the wine, the Lafazanis winery is apparently found in the historical and archeological region of Nemea - not far from the ancient Temple of Hercules. Some of the sentiments accompanying this wine could come in handy for tomorrow - a little Herculean effort on the part of our Canucks might just bring the Cup to Vancouver for that elusive first time.

Not that I'll get to watch all of the game. Until then...

Crete, the Mediterranean and Me

I'll admit it. My eyes brighten and my ears perk up when I see or hear of another wine that features a not-so-common or an unfamiliar, indigenous grape varietal. After all, I'm in the 70's with my Wine Century Club application. With less than 30 varietals to go, you can't blame a guy for reaching for a bottle that may not be on Vancouver's best wine lists.

Besides, affordability and an easy-drinking wine are characteristics that play a larger part in the drinking habits of most folks anyhow. Complex wines with fine pedigrees and, more likely than not, a correspondingly big price have their place - but for a mid-week soup and sandwich kind of night at home, how can you go wrong with the former?

We've got one here.

636. 2008 Boutari Kretikos (Crete - Greece)

The name Boutari may be synonymous with Greek wine - after all, it does produce around 15 million bottles and exports a great many of those millions to 38 countries (and counting) - but I don't tend to consider drinking a lot of it unless we're out having souvlaki and tzatsiki at one of the Greek restaurants in town.

I think I'll need to re-think that a bit since the Boutari wines available nowadays aren't just the large bottle format white or red. There appears to be much more to the winery than I might have thought and this bottle is one of the new breed available.

One of the most powerful names in Greek winemaking, the Boutari family has been making wine since 1879 and, while their home base has always been in and remains in Naousa in the Northern part of the country, their continued business sense has culminated in the creation of a network of wineries throughout nearly every winemaking region in Greece.

The Kretikos line is based in the country's Southern-most island of Crete and they refer to the wine as a "country wine of Crete" or "Vin-de-pays." Although Greek winemaking (and even Boutari) has seen an inclination to start producing better known international varietals, this wine features grapes that are strictly indigenous to the island and to Greece. A blend of 70% Vilana and other grapes that are likely to raise a collective "huh?" when mentioned - try Thrapsathiri and Athiri - it's meant to be a fresh, simple sipper that matches up well with the island's cuisine.

Boo and I were surprised at how nice the wine actually was. Makes me want to pack my back and head off to the Mediterranean even more than I already did. Adding another varietal to my Century Club list is just an added bonus.

Italy vs. Greece

Italy

vs.

Greece

This was another match in our little World Cup of Wine preliminaries where the arbitrarily seeded country should easily put the bottle of an upstart challenger to rest. When I think of Greek wine, it's usually white house wines in Greek restaurants (don't mention retsina though, please) - not red wine.

On the other hand, the Italians and red wine go pretty much hand in hand at our pasta-loving dinner table.

498. 2004 Prunotto Fiulot (DOC Barbera d'Asti - Italy)

499. 2007 Boutari Agioritiko (Nemea - Greece)

I've got to say that the taste-off was a lot closer than I had expected. The Greek wine was quite palatable, while, as much as I like Prunotto as a producer, the Fiulot wasn't nearly all that I'd hoped for.

Generally, I find the Barbera varietal to produce approachable wines, with less tannin and a bit more fruit on them than a lot of the big Italian reds. I wasn't so captivated by this bottle - although it was still drinking fine and was a more developed wine than the Boutari. Alternatively though, the Boutari was made to highlight the fruit - perhaps a bit too much as it didn't have a lot of structure to it.

The Boutari label talks of Agiorgitiko as being "Greece's most talented red grape." That might be, but it didn't quite match up to the talent found in the Italian glass - even if the Prunotto wasn't my favourite bottle of Barbera.

As it ended, Italy gets a tentative win into the quarter-finals, but it will have to up its game to keep moving on. The Greek wine wins in the fact that I'd actually consider buying another bottle the next time we eat souvlaki - plus, I get to add the Agiorgitiko varietal to my list for the Wine Century Club.

I'd score it 2-1 (mostly because the Greek wine deserves a point but the Prunotto deserves the win).

The Last Supper

As if it wasn't enough that the Olympics have left Vancouver, tonight's our final night with Merlot Boy before he genuflects to and jumps aboard the the almighty Qantas bird that will fly him home to Melbourne. Our last supper found MB, Boo, Daveyboi and I headed to Takis Taverna for a little bargain Greek on Davie Street.

OK, it may not be Mykonos, Santorini or even Mount Olympus, but we're celebrating the games that were Vancouver 2010. The Olympics had just ended and, after all, they did start in Greece. Well, maybe not the Winter ones, but we do love our calamari, tsatziki and lamb regardless.

I can't say that I regularly drink Greek wine - unless we're out chowing down on souvlaki - but I kind of like the simplicity of some of the Greek whites that we find in our market. Daveyboi and Boo will always pick red over white but they were talking martinis while we were looking at the menus. So, I went for a new wine (to me) that was neither Boutari nor Demestica.

388. Tsantali Blanc (Greece)

I'd have never known but Tsantali has been making wine and distilling ouzo for over 100 years and it is currently the largest wine producer in Greece. It's numerous wines are exported to 35 countries and the label refers to this bottle as a "Mediterranean Wine." Your guess may be better than mine as to what that means exactly, but I was expecting an everyday, white table wine and it delivered. If it's Greece's largest producer, it must make some higher end wines as well. This won't be one of them; but for $13 (at the BCLD) for a full litre, I don't have a problem with its simplicity.

The Blanc is a blend of two indigenous Greek varietals - Roditis and Zoumiatis. The former, I've heard of. The latter could have been the Greek god of fast sports cars for I know. It does mean, however, that I get to add another two varietals to my Wine Century Club application. That, in itself, makes this a fine wine.

Fine wine or not, Merlot Boy still played coy when it came to sipping back on the grape. I think even he was surprised that he's lasted the whole vacation without a drink - particularly with all the celebrating that was going on around him. It was a party of Olympic proportions but he stayed true to the NMMBD - No Merlot Merlot Boy Diet.

If he keeps this up for much longer, we may have to start calling him Twiggy the next time we see him. He's talking about meeting up with Boo and I when we head to Argentina this Fall. If he doesn't promise to join in for the full-deal Malbec Adventure; however, we may have to re-think our invitation.

It was a grand couple of weeks and having him just drop in, unexpectantly, like he did made it even more fun. Besides it's not too often that we get to, first-handedly, lord it over him that Canada is out-medalling the Aussies at the big games. That's worth giving up a spare bedroom any time.

Cheeky boy that he is though, he got his own back by leaving a Norway t-shirt and pennant for us as a parting gift. I believe that he'll be dreaming of Thomas Ulsrud and his Norwegian curling team pants for many nights to come. Til the next time...