A Surprise Rockford Riesling

Rockford is one of those names from the Barossa that I'm coming to recognize as a top, boutique player but still know very little about. Boo and I made it as far as the winery driveway last April when we were travellin' in that world Down Under but the Rockford folk weren't going to open for another 90 minutes and, unfortunately, we couldn't stick around long enough to pay our respects.

Up until now, most everything I'd heard about Rockford related to their reds - reds that are known for big flavours and limited availability. Owner, Robert O'Callaghan, is known for emphasizing the use of fruit from older, low-yielding, dry farmed vineyards and his best known wine - the highly sought Basket Press Shiraz - has garnered a cult following that rivals Henschke's Hill of Grace.

So, I was quite shocked when I saw a Tweet singing the praises of a Rockford Riesling - particularly since it was a Tweet from a local Vancouverite. A couple of Tweets and quick calls later and I'd secured two of the last bottles from a cache that wasn't even supposed to exist.

1259. 2003 Rockford Riesling (Eden Valley - Australia)

I didn't know that Rockford made a Riesling. So, being the fiend for Riesling that I am, it was a no-brainer of a buy for me.

Part of Rockford's allure is that the winery is steeped in tradition. In some ways, it's more like a museum than a winery. An oft told story recounts how O'Callaghan kickstarted his winery by collecting vintage equipment pieces (still found at the winery) as they were being cast off by more established wineries when modernizing. The equipment still worked and O'Callaghan's method of procurement was as economical as it could get for a new boutique winery.

With all this background, I was eager to pull the cork and give the wine a try. The wine, unfortunately, didn't quite meet expectations. At least not for my palate. I found the wine to be very austere but in a subdued way. It didn't boast overwhelming notes of citrus or minerality that I can find characteristic of Eden Valley Rieslings and, as such, it was just a bit lacking.

My lack of enthusiasm for the wine won't dampen my jones for Rockford but I'm going to want another go at their Rieslings before I'm going to run for them as quickly as I would for their reds.

Wroxton Riesling

Finding a place to stay in the Barossa isn't exactly difficult. Barossans have been capitalizing on wine tourism for a long time and, unlike many wine regions, there's quite the array of accommodation to choose from. When possible, I like to go for the B&B or boutique approach - and if there's a direct connection to wine, all the better.

We definitely hit the ball out of the park with Wroxton Grange - or perhaps I should say we hit that ball off the farm. For us, Wroxton Grange started off with our very spacious, self-contained suite in the 1870's built Victorian homestead. Our stay was so much more than a simple place to lay our heads though. Our hosts - Jo and Ian Zander - calling them "gracious" would really be doing them a disservice, they were so much more than simply "gracious" - offered intimate access to their 500 acres of sheep, cattle and vines. Rural beauty and relaxation are immediately abundant; yet, it's mere minutes away from Angaston - one of the primary towns in the Barossa.

Upon our return from the day's tastings, Ian offered to take us for a ride through the back part of the property - to show us the lay of the land and to go on a kangaroo hunt. As of this point, Boo and I had yet to see one of the creatures in the wild. Like the true Aussie he is, having lived with the reality of roos all his life - including a confrontation in the vineyard with one just the other week where the roo's claws scratched him up and ripped his shirt - he fully comprehended the allure that the kangaroo has for visitors like us. Even if the beast can be more of a nuisance than an icon for him.

I was a little concerned that we were getting some late afternoon rainfall. Maybe kangaroos don't like to feed so much in the rain, I wondered. Silly Bob. It took no time whatsoever to find the rascals. Turns out early morning and dusk feedings are about as common as it gets around here - rain or not - particularly since Wroxton Grange backs onto a regional conservation park.

Beyond the roos, I was fascinated with the Zanders' operations. They are third generation vignerons on the property (and it's looking like their son might carry on the tradition) and, in amongst the grazing lands, they have about 90 acres of vines - some of which are almost a century old. They grow primarily Riesling (40 acres) and Shiraz (28 acres) but also have some Chardonnay and Traminer planted.

It was very interesting to learn that their property straddles both the Barossa and Eden Valleys. I'd previously known that Eden Valley was close to the Barossa Valley and was considered a cooler climate region. What I didn't know is that both the Eden and Barossa Valleys make up the Barossa and that, while you'll regularly see wines labelled Eden Valley or Barossa Valley when the grapes are sourced solely from one of the valleys, winemakers will often blend grapes from both valleys and the wine is still labelled "Barossa." The label just won't include the word "Valley." I wonder how many times I've tried a Barossa wine and just assumed that it meant Barossa Valley. I could be far more familiar with Eden Valley grapes than I ever thought.

A marvellous dry stack fence portions off some of the Wroxton property. All of the rocks were by-products of preparing the lands for agricultural use during the years gone by. Traversing the lands, it doesn't take much imagination to see what the vines need to contend with beneath the surface soils.

That rock fence might also serve as a bit of metaphor for the rough go of it that farmers still face on a yearly basis. The Zanders have faced some definite highs and lows with the operation of Wroxton Grange - the latest low being the recent economic downturn and the lack of markets for grapes in the area. Although there has been a Wroxton Wines label for about 15 years, almost all the Wroxton grapes are sold to other producers in the Barossa - including some of the big names like Yalumba and Jacob's Creek. The last so many years have seen a glut of grapes in the market and the wineries that traditionally bought much of the year's harvest just haven't been doing so recently.

Both Jo and Ian pointed out that a critical part of their being able to survive the lean years was the fact that Ian was one of the first growers in the Barossa to invest in a machine harvester back in 1986. Ian became one of the local experts in the field and they've operated a side business of harvesting other vineyards ever since. Jo confirmed that she was skeptical of the proclaimed merits of a mechanical harvest over hand-picking but even she was surprised at the speed and efficiency of the picking while still maintaining the integrity and quality of the grapes. The lay of the land can't always accommodate the machines, but the efficiency of the process can be a big cost savings for growers facing marginal market values. We didn't have time to take a tour of the actual harvester and see how it works but I know that'd be an interesting topic all on its own.

While the tour and stories were a bonus of our stay, the real highlight was that Ian pulled out some of his own wine and enjoyed it with us before Boo and I headed out for dinner.

1115. 2006 Wroxton Riesling (Eden Valley - Australia)

On pouring us his Riesling, Ian told us how he and Jo started, in 1995, to keep about a half ton of their premium Riesling and Shiraz grapes to have wine made for their own label. When he took us on the tour past the Top Block section of the Riesling vineyards, he proudly pointed out that the bulk of that fruit is sold to Jacob's Creek to go into their Steingarten Riesling. If I hadn't realized there was something going on with the Zander's and Wroxton Grange before, I quickly determined these folks surely know what they're doing. Steingarten is one of the most iconic Aussie Rieslings out there. It's been touted at the Australian Wine Appreciation Society tastings back home on numerous occasions - and here we were sitting back with one of the men that plays a big role in producing that wine. Better yet, we were sipping a wine that is basically a sibling to that icon.

And, you know, Ian's wine is easily one of my favourite Aussie Rieslings. Regular readers will know that Riesling and I are darned good friends; however, on the whole, I often find Aussie Rieslings to be somewhat austere for my liking - with overbearing acid and citrus notes. While that hallmark acidity and brightness of lemon and lime were certainly present, there was a little more tropical fruit on the palate that helped balance the flavours out. The acidity wasn't quite so cutting either in that there was an underlying minerality that added a more complex note - almost like you could taste that dry stone wall in every sip.

Adding to the pedigree of Ian's wine, he told us that Stephen Henschke made the Riesling for him. Henschke is a neighbouring Barossan who only happens to be one of the most acclaimed winemakers in all of Australia. His Hill of Grace Shiraz is maybe second, only to Penfold's Grange, in garnering notice among Aussie red wines.

The sad news was that Ian and Jo have found it to be too much of a hassle to market such small quantities of wine in slow economic times. Accordingly, they haven't made any of their own wines for a few years. Without having a cellar door, it was difficult to market the wine to anyone except the B&B guests - and then you get folks like Boo and I who can't take a case of wine with us even if we wanted to. Since there are limits to how much wine Boo and I can drink on top of all the winery visits, we didn't even get to share the Wroxton Shiraz with Ian or Jo.

With any luck, we'll have another opportunity to do so. The next morning, I took an early morning walk and re-traced some of the paths we took on our drive yesterday and the vistas were simply inspiring. I certainly know that, should we ever have an opportunity to visit the Barossa again, I wouldn't hesitate to stay with Jo and Ian and the incredible Wroxton Grange again.

A Bubbly Reception

After months of waiting - and an 18 hour flight over the Pacific, Equator and International Date Line (somehow we managed to leave on the 12th, arrive on the 14th and avoid Friday the 13th) - Boo and I have finally set foot in Oz. Melbourne, to be exact. And, we couldn't have asked for a more delightful reception. My old high school confidente, the lovely and talented Sheila, met us at the airport and briefly played tour guide as she whooshed us off to our hotel so that we could settle in and ready ourselves for the upcoming evening's extravaganzically swellegant cocktail party that our old drinking bud, Merlot Boy, had conjured up with Sheila to welcome us.

Merlot Boy had rounded up a dozen of his closest friends - at least those that were willing to play welcome wagon to a couple of old Canucks - and, in true Aussie style, readied himself to ply us with booze and appies.

In amongst all the revelry, I learned an interesting facet of Aussie life. As much as you think that stereotypical Australia is a nation of beer-swilling, back-slapping, sports-loving dudes (which I'm still not convinced it isn't), they love their sparkling wines. I was rather gobsmacked by the fact that every single guest brought along a bottle of bubbly to the party - and Merlot Boy swears it wasn't a pre-announced theme. Sure there was plenty of beer and vodka, but I'd be somewhat surprised if a single person brought along a bottle of bubbly to a Saturday night soirée back home - let alone every person.

I suspect there are going to be more than a couple bottles of wine added to The List during this little vacation. So, I might as well get started.

1101. N.V. Sir James Pinot Noir/Chardonnay Cuvée Brut (Australia)

First sip and it's a wine I've never seen before - something tells me this is going to happen a lot on this trip. Sir James is apparently produced by Australian juggernaut, Hardy's, and while I'm intimately aware of them, it's probably more because of their higher end wines that are often served at Australian Wine Appreciation Society events back home. This might be more of a local bottle but it is a classically made sparkler that is classic enough in its flavour profile that I could see it filling a nice niche if they could bring it into our market at the $14 price point it seemed to go for here.

1102. N.V. Omni Classic Sparkling (South Australia)

I'd never run across this next bottle before either. I subsequently discovered that Omni is produced by Accolade Wines - and I think Accolade must have been Constellation in an earlier lifetime because Canada's own Inniskillin and New Zealand's Kim Crawford are part of the almost forty brands that make up Accolade's portfolio and I know they were Constellation wines. And surprise, Hardy's is also part of the same family. My guess is that Omni is as much a marketing product as it is a serious wine for Hardy's since the website for Omni consists as much of girly tips and bachelors of the year as it has anything to do with wine. Not that there's anything wrong with bachelors of the year, mind you.

On the other hand, the site does say that their Classic is made from "traditional" varietals - not that they mentioned what they were traditional for. I also found another site that says the wines are bottle fermented which isn't that common for wines at this price. Finally, a third site states that the winery is based in the Southern Flerieu region in South Australia. That area is located right below McLaren Vale and Boo and I will be there in a little over a week from now. Perhaps this wine will be even more "Omni"-present in that area.

As a bargain wine - it comes in at under $10 - I suppose I can see how this might be an easy grab for warm weather on the patio. I very much doubt that we'd find anything equivalent back home in BC. I might be tempted to save it for Mimosas if some of the other bottles we tried tonight make a concurrent appearance though.

1103. 2007 Seppelt Original Sparkling Shiraz (Great Western/Grampians - Victoria - Australia)

Mere hours into our first day in Oz and here we are running into our first Sparkling Shiraz. Gotta love that! Now Seppelt I've heard of before - although I think I've only ever run across their fortified wines. If I remember correctly, they were also bought up by one of the big consortiums (not Accolade by the looks of it) and there have been number of changes ongoing with the Seppelt brand.

We are starting to see Sparkling Shiraz on more of a regular basis back home, but they tend to be higher end bottles (like Barossa Valley Estates Sparkling E&E) or basic introductory guzzlers. If we can continue to run across bottles like this at approximately $25 throughout this trip, I'll be a happy Bob.

Sparkling Shiraz isn't going to be everyone sip of choice, but I think it works nicely in big Aussie temperatures. I'm looking forward to sampling my fair share and the Seppelt website states that it "has had more experience with this unique Australian wine style than any other winemaker. Although there are no precise records, it appears the winery was experimenting with sparkling red wines as far back as the 1890's." I think we got off on the right foot here.

1104. N.V. Pirramimma Eight Carat Chardonnay/Pinot Noir Cuvée Reserve (South Australia)

I saw no mention of Pirramimma winery on the bottle (but then I didn't take the empty home with me) but I saw a number of references to the connection online - not that Pirramimma's own site refers to this brand. The winery does have several ranges and labels; so it's entirely possible that Eight Carat belongs to the well-established family winery. I'm familiar with the winery's big reds but had no idea that they delved into bubbly.

As mentioned, this trip is going to a bit of an eye opener.

1105. N.V. Grant Burge Pinot Noir/Chardonnay Brut (Eden Valley - Australia)

Last but not least is the Grant Burge. Another sparkler made in the traditional method, it was yet another example of a classically noted wine - without having to go the full Champagne route. Priced in the mid-$20's, I could easily see my grabbing a bottle of this at home as well. Not that I've ever seen it in Vancouver. We do have some Grant Burge wines at home but, like all of the other bubblies, this one just doesn't seem to cross the Pacific to our shores.

Each of the bottles was opened in succession. So, I never did taste any of them side by side or take any tasting notes. It had been a long journey getting there after all. Who takes notes? I vividly remember the Shiraz though and know that I poured myself a little extra helping of the Grant Burge.

With all these bubbles, it would seem that sparkling wine isn't just for weddings, landmark birthdays and special occasions Down Under. Unless, of course, our arrival was like a national holiday or something similar. With all the attention and spoiling we received today, I'm thinking "royal visit" or something like that. If the rest of the country proves as welcoming as Merlot Boy, Sheila and the gang have been, we're in for one helluva trip.

Bring it on.