Pre-WBC15 Excursion - A Short Dip Into the Finger Lakes

I had no idea, when I started this little blog of mine, that it would morph into such a significant part of my life. Six years ago, I would never have foreseen my arriving for my third Wine Bloggers Conference - and making my way to New York state's Finger Lakes none-the-less. But it has and I am. Indeed, following the marvellously entertaining - and informative - experiences I had three years ago in Portland and two years ago in our own Okanagan Valley, I know that the next five days are going to be jammed pack with wine, wine and more wine.

And I can't wait - particularly because I know very little about New York wines. Except for a group tasting station at this year's Vancouver International Wine Festival, I'd be hard pressed to remember any other exposure to the region's wines back home. If memory serves though, we did run across at least one Finger Lakes Riesling the last time Boo and I visited NYC.

One thing I learned at my previous Wine Bloggers Conferences is that, while the seminars and conference events are all that and more, fitting in some additional visits to the wineries themselves is always an extraordinary bonus. Consequently, I was thrilled to be able to sign up for WBC15's Pre-Conference Excursion. The actual conference kicks into gear tomorrow evening but I was joined on the bus by a handful of bloggers to mosey off and see a bit of the Finger Lakes and its wineries first hand for the balance of today and parts of tomorrow.

Our destination is the Seneca Lake Wine Trail where a series of events have been organized by the Seneca Lake Winery Association.

The Finger Lakes region is a series of eleven lakes that were created upon the retreat of glaciers from the last Ice Age. They range from large and deep to small and shallow and they are now home to around 130 wineries. Those wineries produce about 90% of the wine made in New York state and a majority of them are located near Seneca Lake, a primary reason being that the lake is incredibly deep and, consequently, has an ability to store heat during the winter thereby helping with the viability of the vines through what can be some harshly cold temperatures. All the lakes also have a cooling influence on the surrounding areas, providing some moderating effect through the summer growing season  - another crucial benefit to good viticulture.

There are two other leading sub-regions that host "wine trails" of their own - Cayuga Lake and Keuka Lake but they'll have to wait for another day.

Our first visit was at Bellangelo - about half way up the western shore of Seneca Lake. The Missick family and the folks at Bellangelo teamed up with Kings Garden Vineyards (from the eastern shore of the lake) and one of the local, artisan cheese producers. Together, they offered an in-depth look at Riesling - perhaps the grape I most associate with the region - and at a Cab Sauv vertical, something I would definitely not have expected.

I think it's safe to say that my foremost goal for the Finger Lakes visit was to garner some exposure to the local Rieslings. As anyone who regularly reads this blog will know, I'm a super-fan of the grape. Bellangelo must have known that as they went full bore and introduced us to their "Riesling Experience" - a presentation of nine different examples of their varietal Rieslings. The wines ranged from dry to semi-sweet, covered four vintages and included their Reserve bottling and a single vineyard wine. The range of notes was surprising and I'll readily admit to requesting a second and third pour of the Reserve.

On the whole, I didn't find the acid to be as bracing as with some of my favourite Okanagan Rieslings, but it was a memorable introduction to the region - particularly when paired with any number of the local cheeses, breads and charcuterie that were graciously provided. I've got to say that I'm a long time fan of goat cheese but this was the first time I'd ever been offered a chance to milk a goat. I think the ladies, including the goat herself, will be happier to sell me the cheese and leave the milking to the pros however.

As mentioned, there was also a ten-year Cab Sauv vertical presented by Kings Garden Vineyards and owner/winemaker, Mike Oleksyn. The first words out of most everyone's mouth was "I would never have thought that the region is hot enough to ripen Cab." His reply? "Taste the wines and you tell me."

We hear the same "you can't grow Cab here" statement in the Okanagan and, as Mike pointed out, it's all about where you're located and the terroir you find yourself in and on. He advised that his vineyard is located in a micro-climate known as the Banana Belt and he figures he's been able to consistently ripen his grapes in all but a couple of years. In part due to my extended rendezvous with the Rieslings, I wasn't able to taste the full flight; however, I was intrigued by the wide range of opinions that were voiced as to which years were favoured most by our crew.

Our time allotted at Bellangelo, though leisurely, quickly came to an end and we were back on the bus making our way to our host hotel in the town of Geneva at the northern end of Lake Seneca.

After a quick check-in, we journeyed on to our next destination - a rendezvous with the Finger Lakes Wine Women at Ventosa Vineyards. The Winery Association knew that they were going to host a dinner as part of our excursion and they went all out, canvassing their members to submit concepts for the evening's events. The proposal chosen celebrated the growing presence that women are playing in the wine industry in the Finger Lakes.

Bringing together owners, winemakers, researchers and even a part-time burlesque dancer (on top of her winery duties) from four of the Association's wineries, we learned how these women were making headway in an industry that is predominantly male-centric - once you move beyond the tasting room.

Each of our hosts recounted stories of how she ended up treading the vineyard trail and what some of the trials and tribulations were that she'd encountered along the way. From having to convince a winery principal that, indeed, a woman could operate a tractor to being asked if she was crazy when deciding to give up law school, each woman's perspective was unique. Yet, all of them emphasized their belief that part of the Finger Lakes' strength and growth as a winemaking region stems from a larger than usual proportion of women participating in the local wineries.

Our group was also taken for a tour through part of the Ventosa vineyard, where we were put to work for our supper. Hardly. We did receive, however, some notes on how the growers and winemakers look to evaluate the ripeness of their grapes. We collected a selection of grapes and saw a demonstration on the use of a refractometer to measure to the must weight or amount of sugar present in the grape juice.

After that incredibly taxing activity, we were treated to a four course meal that a pair of wines from each of the four wineries participating: Ventosa Vineyards, Leidenfrost Vineyards, Three Brothers Wineries & Estates and Standing Stone Vineyards.

1974.  2012 Ventosa Vineyards Pinot Noir (Seneca Lake - Finger Lakes - New York State)

It only seems natural for me to add one of our host's wines to The List and Ventosa's Pinot was introduced, along with our sweet corn and cheddar risotto cake, as one of the winery's most popular wines.  Fruit forward and easy drinking,  it was popular at our table as well. In fact, with a little finagling, part of an additional bottle magically appeared for a few re-pours.

The balance of the dinner included a candied beet, melon and arugula salad, Finger Lakes filet with Cayuga blue cheese and a peach and ginger galette. The wines ranged from a Blanc de Blancs and Pinot Rosé, through Gewurtz and Riesling to Cab Franc and a Cabernet Port.

As if that weren't enough, everyone moved to Ventosa's banquet room for a walk around tasting of many other offerings from our four host wineries.

Let's say that, as far as introductions go, the Seneca Lake Winery Association and the Finger Lakes region started off on the right foot.

And, as packed as our day had been, we weren't done yet...

'Twas the Night Before Bloggers

While Boo needed to trundle home to Vancouver, I shuffled off (kinda close) to Buffalo. The 2015 Wine Bloggers Conference was about to get underway in the Finger Lakes region in upstate New York. Needing to be in Corning by mid-day Wednesday, I made my way from NYC - by bus none-the-less (no planes or trains and I didn't have an automobile) - and spent the balance of Tuesday getting acclimated to Corning with a night on the town.

No sooner had I settled into the Conference hotel then I ran into blogging buddies from past Conferences, Peter and Nancy Bourget - better known as the bons vivant behind the Pull That Cork blog. Feeling the need for some nourishment - and, of all things - a glass of wine, we toured Corning's main drag and happened upon the delightful restaurant/bar, Hand + Foot. Not only did the vibe call out to us but the cozy hideaway was made all the more enticing by the little poster in the window announcing that they were featuring wines especially for visiting wine bloggers. How could we pass them by?

After striking up a full-out wine nerd conversation with one of the owners and the bartender du jour, we took them up on one of the bar's current faves.

1972.  2014 Getariako Txakolina Ameztoi (Getariako Txakolina D.O. - Spain)

So the story goes, this wine is called Txakoli and the additional letters on Txakolina translate to "the Txakoli." Ameztoi is the producer and is one of the biggest fish in a small pond when it comes to Txakoli. The wine has been largely made for home consumption, in the Basque region of Spain, until the 1980's when a few districts and varieties achieved Denominación de Origen (or appellation) status. Txakoli wines are primarily produced as white wines but there are also red versions and, as we discovered here, a few Rosés as well.

Txakoli whites are made from the Hondarribi Zuri grape and they are known to exhibit a slightly chalky, minerally with citrus notes and a noticeable spritz or light fizz to them. They are made to be drunk while young and fresh. This Ameztoi Rosé is similar in profile but is a bit bolder with a 50/50 blend of Hondarribi Zuri and its red counterpart, Hondarribi Beltza.

I was particularly gung ho to try the wine, thinking that I was going to add two new grapes to my Wine Century Club tally. After all, Hondarribi anything was as foreign a sounding grape as I could remember running across. Hondarrabi Zuri is apparently also known as Crouchen and learning that surprised the hell out of me because we actually drank a bottle of Crouchen (blended with Riesling) a couple of years back when Boo and I were touring wine country in Australia. I'd have never guessed that I'd already added Hondarribi Zuri to my tally as Crouchen. Go figure.

Luckily, I still get to add the red grape, Hondarribi Beltza to my tally as grape #196. While the white grape seems to have travelled a bit - if only to Australia in small amounts - Jancis Robinson reports, in her tome Wine Grapes, that the red Beltza is extremely rare and isn't found in many vineyards outside of Basque country. She notes that it reminds some of Cabernet Franc when made into a full red.

Eric Asimov wrote in the New York Times that "the vast proportion of Txakolina is consumed in Basque country. You find it virtually nowhere else in Spain, except in Basque restaurants, and very little is exported around he world, with one major exception: the United States." Mr. Asimov also reported that the Ameztoi family only started making the Rosé in the last decade but they find that the local population has no affinity for this different take on the wine and almost all of the winery's Rosé is shipped to New York.

Txakoli traditionally accompanies Basque snacks like anchovies and preserved tuna. I'm not so sure it was the best of fits for my incredibly rich pulled pork, grilled cheese sandwich. But the sandwich was so good, I likely could have drunk the bar's dishwater and still been sated.

1973.  2012 Királyudvar Tokaji Furmint Sec (Hungary)

Being the experienced drinkers that we were, we decided - after a little bit of discussion - that we just might be able to handle a second bottle before calling it a night. We stayed on the wine trail less travelled and ordered a dry Tokaj. I'm not all that familiar with Tokaj wines - primarily because they aren't that common in our Vancouver market but also because they're often found only as high end dessert wines that come in at a pretty penny - but, unlike the Txakoli, at least I knew of them.

Királyudvar is an historic estate in Hungary. The name translates to "Kings Court" but the estate had lost much of its glory until an American businessman, Tony Kwang, purchased it in 1997. The tale goes that Mr. Kwang was visiting Budapest and tried a "6 puttonyos" Tokaji Aszú dessert wine that made such an impression that he travelled 200 kilometres the next day where he discovered Királyudvar, purchasing it a couple of months later. He has since embarked on a modernization of the winery that also included the introduction of biodynamic farming to the estate.

As mentioned, Tokaj wines are probably best known as dessert wines, in large part because the local Furmint and Hárslevelu grapes are susceptible to the botrytis rot, as are the world renowned Sauternes wines of Bordeaux. As such, the promise of a dry Furmint was an intriguing option.

Similarly to the recent introduction of the Ameztoi Rosé, this dry version of a Tokaj was only proposed as a new innovation for the winery in 2005. Indeed, it is still sees a relatively limited production in that only 2000 cases made in 2012.

A blend of 85% Furmint and 15% Hárslevelu, I found the Királyudvar to be more enjoyable to my palate that the Txakoli. And, more than that, these actually are two new grapes to add to my Wine Century Club tally - numbers 197 and 198. I'm getting so achingly close to 200 that I might even reach my Doppel membership before we knock back the 2001st wine on The List. Furmint and its offspring, Hárslevelu, are grown mostly in Hungary where they are believed to have originated from; however, they have travelled somewhat around Central Europe, to neighbouring countries like Austria, Slovakia, Croatia and Romania. The two even found their way, as a pair, to South Africa.

This little venture on the town in Corning certainly proved that there's a whole world of wine out there to be discovered.

I've since read that Txakoli is often "poured in an exuberant arc from a bottle held high above the shoulder into tumblers to create a bust of bubbles in the glass." Such an experience was not our's but I think my excitement at getting another three grape varieties to add to my Wine Century Club tally more than made up for the lost opportunity for a show. Besides I think there'll be plenty of show to come with Mr. and Ms. Pull That Cork - and all the other bloggers - over the next couple of days.

Retro Drinks and Faded Eccentrics

I suppose it goes without saying that all "naughty weekends" must come to an end. We'd reached our final night in NYC and, for the last dinner out, we decided to go old school and visit El Quijote at the historic Chelsea Hotel. Who wouldn't be intrigued when their guide book (in our case City Secrets - New York City) has two separate entries, the first exclaiming that "the Quijote is a survivor, and the better part of its patrons - writers, catalog models, hospital workers, legitimately eccentric denizens of the Chelsea Hotel - appear to be among those who have gone too far down their chosen road to contemplate coming back...[and is] the best spot to take in the underlit defunct elegance of the place."

The second entry extols that the restaurant and bar are "one of those places where 'old' New York isn't re-created - it simply never left...The spirits collection includes crème de menthe, Dubonnet, and sloe gin - things you'd think no-one has ordered in years until the night you come in here for a perfect Manhattan and you see a woman of tattered beauty - maybe a 1948 Miss Nassau County or a former showgirl nursing one of those retro drinks in the curve of her arm."

The lure of a renowned paella didn't hurt either.

1971.  2014 Bodegas Faustino VII Tempranillo Rosado (Rioja DOC - Spain)

I just know that, if there's some variation of squid or calamari on a menu, Boo will order it. With chorizo and paella completing our dinner table, I figured a Rosé would be a nice fit. There was something about the deep pink hue of the wine that just seemed to say that the wine belonged here. The acidity was noticeable and helped counterbalance the richness of our chosen dishes. While not as elegant as the Whispering Angel we drank yesterday in the park, we had no problem finishing the wine long before we had to call it an evening with our paella.

Like the vintage cocktails that were hailed in our guide book, Faustino wines could very well have been served here at El Quijote for decades. The Chelsea was built between 1883 and 1885. Faustino has been making wine for over 150 years and the restaurant opened its doors in 1930. Something tells me that Rosados have been on the wine list here regardless of the favour or disdain Rosé wines may be experiencing at any given time.

It was a unique glimpse at New York and the vibe certainly lent itself to the conclusion of a naughty weekend. It also left us with a craving to make our way back to NYC, hopefully sooner than later.

Revisiting a Beverage on the Bridge

Unfortunately, we've already hit Monday and it's Boo's and my last day of our naughty weekend in New York. Luckily, it was another sun-filled day, allowing us the chance to accomplish one more standout activity - taking in the Manhattan skyline and walking over the Brooklyn Bridge. Funny, with only forty bottles to go on this Odyssey of mine, heading back to the Brooklyn Bridge was almost like coming full circle on this blogging experience.

I was only a couple of months into the blog the last time Boo and I visited Berra Yogi in NYC. And, as was becoming a tradition when visiting the Big Apple, we made a quick tour of the DUMBO area (Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass) and took a bit of a wine break while walking the bridge on our way back to Manhattan. That post was six years ago and back at the #88 wine on The List.

Once again, we'd have been better off grabbing a wine back around the hotel because it was surprisingly hard to find a bottle while wandering around DUMBO. There was supposed to be a wine shop in the area but we couldn't find it - even after waiting half an hour for the scheduled opening time. Thankfully, we finally found an upscale corner store that stocked a handful of wines. Probably less than a dozen wines - mostly commercial bottles that weren't befitting such an august occasion as we had in mind - but there was one bottle that at least had a bit of promise.

1970.  2011 Restivo Malbec Reserve (Patagonia - Argentina)

In retrospect, it's surprising that a shop with only a sprinkling of labels would feature a wine from Patagonia as one of it offerings. I can see Malbec as being a popular, crowd-pleasing choice but I would have expected a more commercial, general release wine to be from Mendoza. I don't partake in Patagonia that often. So, I didn't mind running across this bottle at all. I just wish it hadn't been such a task to find it.

As might be expected from an Argentine Malbec, there was plenty of body and dark fruit but there was a bit more nuance and depth to the wine than I had expected considering I found it in a corner grocer.

Admittedly, it's the walk over the bridge and not a stop, sit and sip on the bridge that's the allure of this landmark. So, we quickly toasted our return to the bridge and to the almost 1900 bottles that we've finished off in between visits.

That's a lot of wine under the bridge.

We had two more scheduled stops to make today: the obligatory shopping spree at Century 21 and a visit to the World Trade Centre memorial. Given the historical background to 9/11 and a common tendency to hyperbolize the tragedy, I found the 9/11 Memorial Plaza to be incredibly understated and restrained. The two waterfalls, set within the footprints of the original Twin Towers, were both incredibly contemplative and emotive. Boo and I both found it to be a superb commemoration.

There were too many people and security guards to refill our wine glasses and soak in the atmosphere but there was no escaping the deep sense of loss that the memorial stirred.

We weren't able to take in the actual Museum but, perhaps, that just means that we'll have to visit the city yet one more time - whether it be for a naughty weekend or something a little more substantial. Either way works for me.

An Angelic Time

With so little time to spend and so many things to see, we scheduled today for a bit of wandering - for just making like a native Manhattanite on a sunny Sunday. You know, like having a bit of lunch in Central Park and taking in a museum. Finding a place to buy some take-out or to grab a bottle of wine on the Upper East Side before noon turned out to be a lot more difficult than I'd have expected. We never did find wine and our sandwiches would hardly have been written up in any food writer's homage to Big Apple cuisine, but I'll take lunch on a Central Park bench any day.

We figured we'd only have enough time to do justice to one museum and, accordingly, we chose the Guggenheim (since we'd done the Metropolitan, the Natural Museum of History and The Cloisters on our last trip to town).

Gotta say that I'm certainly more familiar with wine than I am with modern art. While there were some intriguing pieces, there were more oeuvres that just had me scratching my head. Can't say that there were many pieces that I might be able to find a place for in our home. Colour me surprised.

Following our circuit of the whimsical, surreal and perplexing, the Upper East Side, thankfully, revealed a bit of herself to us and we found a small wine shop that was open on Sunday. Knowing that we were heading back to Central Park - and to one of my absolute favourite locales in all of NYC - to rest our weary tootsies, I spied what promised to be a splendid pairing for our destination.

The crowds and perpetual parade of folks at the Bethesda Fountain and Terrace isn't the most treasured facet of my attachment to this landmark. That would be more of its easy atmosphere for contemplation when you find yourself virtually alone in the space. But, lying down on the adjacent grass, with a glass of wine, as you watch the world go by is pretty ideal all the same.

1969.  2014 Caves D'Esclans Whispering Angel Rosé (Côtes de Provence AOC - France)

A bottle of chilled Rosé on a hot, sunny afternoon, while lounging in a much-loved haunt is about as good as it gets in my book. And how great is it that we happened onto a bottle of Whispering Angel for our visit to the Angel of the Waters? I wouldn't call it a whisper that the label cried out to me back at the bottle shop; it was more of a scream. Like, "Angel wine, Angel fountain. Don't you see the symmetry?"

I understand that this is a rather well-known and well-received Rosé among many critics and in a number of markets. I don't recall having seen it in the Vancouver market at home but, then, our market is more awash in the more economic, commercial Rosés - unless they're locally produced in the Okanagan. This Provençal version - as to be expected - is primarily Grenache, Rolle (local name for Vermentino) and Cinsault. Dry with hearty minerality, it didn't take long to finish off the bottle.

Naturally, just after we'd finished our last sips and were packed up and ready to head out, the floor show - or should I say "terrace" show started up. We'd been perfectly seated for the show to come but the Afro-Bats arrived about 15 minutes too late. We stuck around to watch the comedy/acrobatic show for awhile - and Boo was even plucked from the crowd to "participate" in a stunt - but, ultimately, there was a lot more banter and solicitation than there were tricks performed.

Sunday in the park is one thing, but cocktail hour was calling our name back at the hotel.

Turning The Table in Manhattan

One of the perks of our hotel in NYC was a rooftop deck where martinis on our own or communal wine and sangria tastings offered a civilized passage to the evening, all while sipping and recounting the day's activities with the Empire State Building filling our immediate skyline.

No wine to add to The List with this post but I am pleased to add a Guest Alcohol:

Long Table Distillery London Dry Gin (British Columbia)

Boo and I are creatures of habit in that we always grab a bottle of Vodka and/or Gin before boarding a plane at YVR so that we have some ready cocktails when we reach our destination. We were quite surprised to see Long Table's Gin available as we readied for our flight to New York. Craft distillery wares aren't usual fare at the Vancouver Airport. This was quite a treat and I think it easily lived up to the pressure of meeting Manhattan cocktail standards.

Thing is, we were enjoying our martinis so much that we cut our timing close to make it to Broadway - especially since we were going to grab last-minute tickets. We opted for Hand to God - an irreverent puppet comedy that takes fundamental religion in small-town Texas to task. Naughtier than even Avenue Q's puppetry magic. We laughed long and loud.

If this was to be a naughty weekend in The Big Apple. This was Broadway at its naughtiest. And we loved it.

The High Line & Wine

You might say that one benefit of being well behaved - some might say boring - upon the arrival of our naughty weekend in Manhattan, is that we actually got up early enough to grab coffee and a bit of a wander before our scheduled rendezvous with old friend, Berra Yogi. Ms Yogi had to teach a class first thing and we arranged to meet at Eataly around 11.

Boo and I recalled the Union Square Greenmarket as a major find during our last foray to NYC. My sense of direction wasn't as sharp as it should have been but we eventually found it. I know that I'd be a regular if I lived here. Even if the foods weren't as enticing as they were, the people watching alone was worth the effort.

Of course, we had what turned out to be one of the biggest laughs of the entire trip. We'd paid some hefty American dollars for last night's grilled duck hearts. Well, sure enough, we found a booth at the market that was dedicated to all things Hudson Valley duck. The sign that caught our attention most, however, was "Why not try some Duck Hearts as a treat for your cat or dog." Seems like there isn't much difference between haute cuisine for yourself and your pet in NYC.

I don't know anyone who feeds duck rillette to their pets though. So, Boo and I got right back on the duck and grabbed some for our pending picnic lunch with Berra Yogi.

If we found the Union Square Greenmarket to be exciting, Eataly was downright orgasmic. I'd never heard of Eataly before but it's a veritable love letter to Italian cuisine. It's as if my favourite Italian deli in Vancouver and Whole Foods had a love child - and then doubled or tripled the size. Mamma Mia!

We grabbed some smart coffees and wandered aisle after aisle, desperately trying to limit the number of items we threw into our basket. This was going to be one helluva picnic.

Despite all the fun we had cruising the aisles, we were running late and had to mosey on. But, not before we hit the adjacent - all Italian - wine shop.

It was now Saturday afternoon in Manhattan and the High Line - an elevated and abandoned spur of the old New York Central Railroad that's been converted into a linear park through the Meatpacking District and Chelsea - was packed. Surprisingly, the least used section of the park seemed to be the only grassy section. We took up residence and ripped into our treasures from Eataly.

Oh, and opened a couple of bottles of wine.

1968.  2013 La Spinetta - Toscana Vermentino (Toscana Fermentino IGT - Tuscany - Italy)

There was no hesitation before I grabbed this bottle for the picnic. La Spinetta is one of my favourite Italian wineries - ever since Boo and I visited it during our visit to Italy in 2008. Problem is, no one in the Vancouver market seems to carry their wines at all. Seeing that this was a Tuscan wine was also a little surprising in that we visited La Spinetta in Piedmont where the winery was established. If I'd previously been told that there was also a Tuscan operation, I'd forgotten.

We know La Spinetta more for their Barbarescos and other reds but I figured a picnic in Manhattan's summer heat called for a cooled white. I'm not really familiar with the Vermentino grape - particularly as a varietal wine - and I have no idea if this bottle was a good, bad or indifferent representation of the grape. There was a richness to the body but not a lot of fruit on either the nose or the palate. Herbal notes were perhaps a little more noticeable. All I know is that paired with prosciutto, cheese, olives and incredible bread - not to forget the duck rillette - and I was a happy camper.

1969.  Villa Sparina Gavi (Gavi DOCG - Italy)

I knew nothing about this wine; however, it was in the wine shop cooler, it had a interesting bottle and I'm always up for trying out something new.

Gavi is the region. Cortese is the grape. Turned out that it didn't do too much for any of us. It came across as tamer than the Vermentino and the acidity, that might have brought the overall reception up a notch or two, was decidedly missing. In looking up the grape in Jancis Robinson (et al)'s tome, Wine Grapes, even the sub-heading for Cortese is "generally rather bland northern-Italian white that shows its best varietal face in Gavi." Like the La Spinetta, I don't know if this was a favourable take on the varietal wine but it didn't do anything to make me swear allegiance to the grape for time memorial.

Once we eaten our fill of Italian fare and re-corked the balance of the Gavi, we wandered some more along the High Line and bid "adieu" to Berra Yogi. Unfortunately, she was off to work. As for our plans, cocktails and Broadway sounded like worthy strategy.

A Naughty Weekend in NYC

Out of the Pride Parade panoply and into the fire. Following our adventures in Pride last weekend, Boo and I were looking to keep the groove flowing - and where else to give it the old college try than in the Big Apple!

I'm set to make my way to the 2016 Wine Bloggers Conference that's being held next week in the Finger Lakes region of upstate New York. Boo decided not to join me at the conference but I was able to talk him into a naughty weekend in Manhattan beforehand.

We arrived at our hotel late Friday night and were pleasantly surprised with the fact that we were staying a stone's throw from the Empire State Building. Not that Manhattan is ever without a view at hand, but catching one of the iconic shots from your front door and your room window is a bonus.

Desperately eeding a bite to eat, our concierge directed us to Lupolo, a new hot spot that just happened to be on the same block. He advised that there's normally up to a two hour wait to get a seat but we might luck out seeing as how it was already 10 p.m. and our hotel had an "arrangement" for priority seating for its guests when possible. Despite the hour, the restaurant was full. After a surprisingly brief wait, we took two seats at the bar.

The name - Lupolo - apparently means "hops" in Portuguese and this was a take on the beer-centric tavernas in Portugal called "cervejarias." In New York terms, we'd found an upscale brewpub. Thing is, we didn't know that at the time. We'd been told that the proprietor had a more elegant, Michelin-starred restaurant in town and this was all about Portuguese tapas. In retrospect, that probably explains the limited wine list.

No matter, we took the bartender at his word that he had a Rosé that paired perfectly with everything on the menu.

1967.  2014 Herdade Rocim Mariana Rosé (Vinho Regional Alentejano - Portugal)

Turned out he was correct.

Herdade Rocim is an example of a new breed of Portuguese wineries, particularly in the southern part of the country, that are adopting a more modern take on winemaking - including cropping yields, production standards and updated equipment in the winery and a goal to execute a more restrained and elegant wine (as compared to many of the rustic and simple table wines that Portugal was more associated with in the past).

The winery was only established in 2000 - a mere pup by Portuguese wine measures. Their Rosé is a blend of Touriga Nacional (60%) and Aragonez (40%) (a regional name for Tinta Roriz) that was medium-bodied and fully dry with, perhaps surprisingly, a nice streak of acidity.

As suggested, the wine went far too nicely with our range of tapas - from shrimp turnovers and octopus rice to açorda (bread porridge) and duck hearts. The last plate was a special that night and it was a real hit with Boo and I. Composed of duck hearts that were grilled with pickled mango and jalapeños, we thought this would be a prime dish to try and recreate for our Dinner Club. We just wouldn't be able to tell Lady Di or She Who Must be obeyed that the protein was duck heart.

Being tired from the day's travel, we didn't stick around for a second bottle or any of the multiple offerings on tap. Nor did we play bright-eyed tourist and hit the town. Kinda sad, in hindsight, for a Friday night of a "naughty weekend," but it felt like a pretty good start for a couple of old guys like us.

Pride & Prosecco

Alright, I won't try to kid anyone. This post is going to be far more story- and photo-centric than it could ever be about wine. After all, I can't say that I know anyone who attends a Pride Parade thinking it's going to be a high end, snootified wine tasting. We're far more likely to be applauding vintage biceps than Barolo and praising pecs than Pétrus.

That being said, our little gang does try to accentuate our celebration with a sip here and there.

For a slew of years now, our good friends, Lady Di and She Who Must Be Obeyed, have hosted a Pride Parade gathering. They live right on the parade route and we've laid stake to a section of sidewalk that puts us smack dab in the action. It started with a simple recreation of a living room with some patio furniture and well-placed plants. In the last five years, the number of guests has grown and the outdoor designs have taken on a life of their own - including smart cocktails, appies and BBQ - with annual themes eventually creeping into the picture. This year, the grrrrlsz opted for an Arabian Nights/ I Dream of Jeannie concept.

Boo and I hit the tickle trunk and pull out all things Abu Dhabi from our visits with Miss Jaq in the UAE.

Seeing as how the Parade is always held on the Sunday and our celebration stats kicking in around 10.30, the cocktail of choice is often a Mimosa. So, there's usually a steady stream of corks being popped for more bubbly. Only problem with blogging the wines is that most decently priced bubbles don't come in vintages. It makes it hard to continually find new bottles to try and add to The List.

There are always a couple to be found though - particularly with the increasing interest in Proseccos and other Italian bubblies.

1965.  N.V. Cavicchioli 1928 Spumante (Modena - Italy)

Not only was this bottle perfectly festive for a Pride Parade, its demi-sec sweetness also worked well for the Mimosas. The Spumante might have been a bit too sweet to drink for long on its own - although you could, especially on a hot summer's day. The lower 8% alcohol level was helpful as well, given the length of the Parade.

The most remarkable part of this year's Parade was that Justin Trudeau (just before he was elected Canada's new Prime Minister) wandered right alongside our oasis. Not noticing that the Liberals' contingent was approaching, I'd just picked up a smokie for lunch and, naturally, I took a big bite JUST AS JUSTIN CAME WITHIN A COUPLE FEET OF ME!! Not only could I not speak to him, I couldn't even shake his hand as mine was covered in grease and mustard. All I could do was shrug, point to the dog and attempt a weak smile as I mumbled "sorry" with my mouth full.

If that's not enough to drive a guy to drink, don't know what is. If I hadn't had one in my hand at the time, I would have needed to grab another.

Once the Parade was over and our oasis was put away, Boo, Mr. D. and I made our annual trek over to the big fair at Sunset Beach where we sit back and watch the crowds while sipping on a bottle or two.

1966.  N.V. Sommariva Conegliano Valdobbiadene Brut (Prosecco Superiore DOCG - Italy)

This year, we stuck with the keep-it-cool-and-refreshing, bubbly theme.

This was yet another Italian bubbly that I hadn't run across in the Vancouver market. Drier than the Spumante, I was just as happy that neither Boo nor Mr. D. were sipping at the same rate they were this morning. It meant there was more for me to drown my sorrows with. After all, how many times do you get the opportunity to shake hands and/or chat with your country's head political leader? And there I am with a wiener in my mouth.

I can't even imagine what (our future) PMJT was thinking as he passed by. Hopefully, he saw a number of even stranger things during the course of the day.

Despite the political mis-step, it was a grand day for all. Next year, I may have to either forego lunch or pay better attention to which groups are approaching during the Parade. The good thing may be that I'll be long finished with blogging The List. So, I'll be able to drink whatever we like next year. No stress in picking wines - just in being careful when contemplating my next wiener.

A Little Planning en Blanc

It may cause all sorts of controversy and it even spawned an alternatively themed protest but, like it or despise it, Dîner en Blanc has established itself on the Vancouver social calendar over the last three years. It doesn't appear to be slowing down either as this year's fourth edition is set to light up the night in white with its largest gathering yet.

Knowing that there would have to be incredible energy and supreme inventiveness put into this year's plans, we figured we should have a gathering of the clan to puts some plans to paper. Naturally, Soolu brought along a Vodka punch to get those creative juices flowing.

Boo and I learned of the Parisian off-shoot too late to make it to the year one show but we've decked ourselves out in white for the last two years and done what we could to brighten up the scene. Once you've attended one of the grand affairs, you have the opportunity to invite two guests the following year. Boo and I grew to a foursome with Mr. D.  and Soolu last year and, this year, we're up to eight.

With our gaggle of gays being that large, we're hoping for more than a little fabulous and "Je ne sais quoi" at our table. After all, if Boo and I are, once again, going to be among the oldest folks in attendance, we have to bring just a little bit more to the table to show all those Millennials that being long in the tooth doesn't mean that you don't know your way around a soirée. We may no longer party until dawn with the post-dinner bash, but I'm going to argue that it's only because we're so stuffed after eating our extravagant meal.

The wine selection at Dîner en Blanc is limited - and uninspiring - at the lower end of the price range. So, we made up for lacklustre wines at the actual party by pulling the corks on some interesting wines tonight.

1961.  2012 Henry LaGarde Malbec (Mendoza - Argentina)

Despite my jones for all things Argentine, I can't recall having previously run across a Henry LaGarde wine. I don't know what kind of a presence they have in the Vancouver market but I don't think they even attended the Vancouver International Wine Festival the year that Argentina was one of the featured regions. That was in 2010 and we saw more Argentine wines that year than probably any other, ever.

Ah well, their Malbec is now on The List and the bottle didn't last long at all with this group. That should be no surprise, however, Malbec and dining al fresco just go hand-in-hand. The easy fruit just seems to slide out of the glass - much like how some of our group will be gunning to slide the pants off some of the bounty of strapping diners at the party.

1962.  2010 Les Halos de Jupiter - Rasteau (Côtes du Rhône Villages AOC - France)

1963.  2006 Black Hills - Nota Bene (Okanagan Valley VQA)

2008 Red Rooster Meritage

Once the BBQ was out of the way, I seem to have gotten more caught up in our planning session than I was in taking photos for the blog. I know. What's wrong with that picture? Well, the answer is that there is no picture of two of the evening's wines. I suppose you'll just have to take me at my word that the Nota Bene and Red Rooster empties were there during the next morning's clean-up.

Les Halos de Jupiter and its selection of Rhônes is gaining a bit of a following locally. I'm more familiar with their Châteauneuf-du-Pape but this Côtes du Rhône Villages is a welcome additional to the fold. I remember - from many, many years ago when I was just being introduced to wine - that I regularly reached for a Côtes-du-Rhône for picnics and the like. Funny how I'm still a fan.

I don't need to go into Black Hills much here since this is the sixth vintage of Nota Bene to be added to The List. Bottles from 2001 through 2005 are already listed. As one of the Okanagan Valley's icon wines, it seemed a natural to bring it out for some iconic Dîner planning.

The Red Rooster Meritage isn't as heralded as the Nota Bene but this wine did win a 2011 Lieutenant Governor's Award as one of the province's top wines and the winery certainly has as many of its wines mentioned on The List as any other because of Boo's and my long-time association with Red Rooster's Adopt-A-Row program. The 2008 Meritage has actually been added to The List in two formats since we've polished off a regular bottle and it was the wine that filled Boo's 3-Litre, 50th birthday bottle that we recently added at #1939. Hence, it doesn't get added again tonight.

1964.  2005 Château Rieussec 1er Grand Cru Classée (Sauternes AOC - France)

Once we'd divvied up the various courses and decided who was bringing what plates and service items, we settled into Boo's peach pie and a treat to toast this night and the big evening to come.

I don't pretend to know much about the First Growth wines of Bordeaux - at least not from a tasting standpoint. The price tag attached to a Château Margaux or Lafite Rothschild doesn't quite fit my budget - whether for Tuesday night or a special occasion. I think it's safe to say that I haven't met a Sauternes that I didn't like though and this one happens to be a Premier Cru (meaning that the winery was identified as one of the top wines in the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855). Château Rieussec is still around today; however, it has changed hands a number of times since the 19th Century. The most recent sale, in 1984, saw Rieussec purchased by the Domaines Barons de Rothschild, owners of Château Lafite Rothschild. Different owners or not, it would seem that the "premier" classification is still being earned as the 2001 Château Rieussec was named Wine Spectator's Wine of the Year in 2004. Luckily, we picked this one up when Marquis, perhaps the city's top private wine shop, had some on sale.

If we can't drink such a bottle on the actual big night, we might as well do so when making our plans for the dinner.

Now, we just need to get all our ducks in a row. That is BBQ Duck and a row of cheeses for a final course.